Moonraker's Restaurant review by Hugo Elliott
This is food of only the highest calibre. I've eaten at many fine and expensive restaurants (The Fat Duck, The Ivy etc) and Moonraker matches the above in all aspects apart from the expense.
It's worth mentioning (seeing as nobody else has) that the chef at moonraker trained under Jason Atherton of the Michelin starred Maze - who is the only British chef to have worked at El Bulli, the finest restaurant in the world - and has clearly learnt a lot.
Having read "MattyB"'s review I felt I had to write something as I was also in the restaurant on Sunday afternoon. I overheard the conversations his table were having with the waiting staff and felt obliged to tell our waitress that we were happy with whatever wait Rob, the head chef, deemed appropriate to produce his frankly outstanding food.
I don't intend to write a review solely contradicting "MattyB" but I'll leave it to you to judge whether or not it's reasonable to skip the starter, order "slow cooked shin of beef" and then complain when it doesn't arrive quickly.
The building which houses the restaurant is a real delight. The modern colour scheme, furniture and cutlery fusing seemlessly with the centuries (16th, i believe) old beams and leaded windows. If the weather is kind one may dine al fresco, looking over the green towards Alfriston church.
I've been to Moonraker several times now, walking in off the street with no idea what to expect, other than a rather inventive looking menu and the aforementioned building, on my first visit. Each time I have returned it has been the highest possible expectations. These expectations have not been let down.
Although I can remember every course of every meal I've eaten at Moonraker I'll just talk about Sunday's meal now.
My terrine of caramelised duck's liver and smoked eel served with locally baked toast and home made piccalilly was perfect. Rich, sweet, smooth duck's liver complimenting the meaty, smoky eel.
I too had the beef for my main course. a fillet (vaguely circular and roughly 3" in diameter), a rolled shin, slowly cooked (given the clues left on the menu, I wasn't surprised that it didn't arrive quickly) served with shallots and potato. My benchmark for beef is the excellent, if expensive, Hawksmoor restaurant or, if I'm cooking at home, meat from the ginger pig, and this is every bit as good. The so called "cheap-cut" of shin cooked amazingly, falling apart at the fork's touch and far tastier than the fillet.
Pudding was a lemon posset with blueberry soup and simply awesome, the balance of acid lemon and sweet blueberry, again I have to use this word, perfect. Were it not for the three and a half mile walk home along Vanguard Way I probably would have felt I’d eaten too much!
I absolutely, positively, definitely, without reservation, hesitation or doubt would recommend Moonraker to anybody - as far as I'm concerned the fact that it's in a picturesque village an hour from the filthy, crime-ridden streets of london is a bonus!
You will not find food of this quality and creativity served at this price anywhere else in the country. I suggest that you go to Moonraker and sample Rob's talent before he ends up charging £40 for an entree somewhere in Mayfair.
N.B. After a glowing review like this I should point out that I am in no way connected to the owners, staff, suppliers or financiers of Moonraker!
Tuesday, July 22, 2008
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