Jay Rayner reviews

Sunday, July 24, 2011 - The ribs are listed as 'meaty', and they aren't joking. These are proper, thick-cut numbers, but with the tinge of pink all the way through that you only get from long contact with smoke. They are tender, but not so that they fall away from the bone. And they are properly sauced, in the sticky Texas style. A plate of those is a six-napkin job at least...The chicken has crisp skin and flesh that laughs in the face of dry. An armadillo egg - a cream-cheese stuffed jalapeno, wrapped in spiced sausage meat and then held together with bacon, the whole roasted to a crisp shell - is as close as Texas gets to a delicacy, and is outrageously moreish.