AA Gill reviews

Sunday, May 09, 2010 - Nothing on the menu is anything you've eaten elsewhere. Even if its basics are familiar, it arrives as an original deconstruction with decorative features. We began with corn cakes and mashed avocado and a chilli jelly, a brilliant combination of competing flavours. Then wild mushroom arancini with a shiitake brew, which was an Italian fried funghi rice ball and an unbelievably, almost unbearably intense mushroom tea...It's incredibly good food, and I mean that in a credibly defying sense. It has understood the essential truth of vegetarianism: that it's just food.